Can fashion retailers get shoppers out of their jogging bottoms?

With the Golden Quarter on the horizon, fashion retailers would ordinarily be readying the sequins for party season, but this year that may not be the case.

Events across the board have been cancelled or postponed, and with new government restrictions limiting the number of people allowed at any gathering to six, even smaller celebrations may not be going ahead.

Loungewear and athleisure have been the coronavirus winners when it comes to fashion, as consumers in lockdown switched their business suits for jogging bottoms while working from their sofas and dining tables.

Is there a way for fashion to bring the glitter back to the golden quarter, or will comfy clothes remain top of the list?

Lockdown loungewear

Over the last six months, the loungewear category has grown exponentially as consumers prioritised comfort while staying at home.

In the last three months alone, searches for loungewear grew 15%, according to global fashion search platform Lyst, while searches for leggings and hoodies have surged 25% and 12% respectively in the last two weeks as customers prepare for the winter seasons. 

“What we saw initially when the country first went into lockdown back in the middle of March was a shift towards people wanting more comfortable clothing,” explains womenswear retailer Sosandar’s chief executive, Julie Lavington. “They weren’t going to the office, they weren’t going to events, so they were buying less formal clothing and more comfortable pieces.”

This trend has continued throughout lockdown and beyond, with retailers like Primark, Topshop and Boohoo all registering sharp upticks in sales of items such as jogging bottoms and pyjamas.

Primark parent company Associated British Foods’ chief financial officer John Bason summed up: “It’s stuff like loungewear, leisurewear, nightwear [that are selling]. Formalwear, luggage – that’s non-existent.”

A Topman spokesperson told Retail Week: “Leisurewear has been the most popular category at Topman for the last few months with jersey, sweats, joggers, jeans, underwear and socks accounting for around 50% of brand sales.”

Lyst data also reveals that athleisure is popular, with brands such as Nike and Sweaty Betty topping its search lists.

“People are going to want to stay in and be cosy. Things like nightwear, leggings and joggers will all still be key”

Chloe Collins, GlobalData

GlobalData senior apparel analyst Chloe Collins believes that the category will remain popular in the coming months as the evenings grow darker and colder.

“People are going to want to stay in and be cosy. Things like nightwear, leggings and joggers will all still be key, in really cosy fabrics.

“I think because a lot of people are still working from home at the moment, it’s going to be more difficult to get them to venture out after work once they finish for the day. Ordinarily they’d already be in the office dressed up and ready for after-work drinks, but if you’re at home and have to venture out in the dark, it’s going to be less appealing.”

She does, however, think that gymwear may not be quite as popular, as those who took up hobbies such as cycling or running during lockdown may not continue with these during the winter months.

The Golden Quarter

While loungewear may have cemented itself as a wardrobe staple, there are signs that shoppers are starting to think about jazzing up their looks now that pubs, bars and restaurants have reopened. 

“As the weeks and months progressed [through lockdown], we did start to see things shift back to more normal buying behaviours,” says Lavington. 

“Over the summer people wanted pretty dresses. Even if they weren’t going on holiday, they were still buying clothing for when we had good weather at home. Customers are still buying items to make themselves feel good.”

“We think people will still dress up to go out for dinner even if they can’t go to fancy Christmas events,” she predicts.

With greater social restrictions in place, celebrating in small groups seems likely to be how the Christmas season will pan out. 

However, Collins believes the comfy trend will extend into the Christmas season with jumpers and festive-themed loungewear and nightwear likely to be best-sellers.

“I think people will still want to celebrate – they’ll be looking forward to the end of 2020 – but it will be more about celebrating in the home,” she says. “There’s potential still for things like Christmas jumpers – even though people won’t be going into the office and participating in Christmas Jumper Day there – to sell well. There will be more emphasis on celebrating with the family at home.”

Lavington, on the other hand, thinks it could be all about how you market the outfits. Like retailers such as Zara and Asos, Sosandar has had models shoot themselves in their clothes at home during lockdown, and Lavington says by showing party clothes in a home setting, customers may be more inclined to purchase even if they are only wearing a party dress to the kitchen.

With the majority of consumers now accustomed to Zoom quizzes and video parties, it seems inevitable that some festive workplace celebrations may also go digital, meaning there is scope for retailers to market their occasionwear and festive jumpers for a virtual party too. 

This is where separates such as sparkly tops or statement accessories could prove popular as customers try to look good online.

A different-looking Christmas offer

However, Kantar fashion analyst Anusha Couttigane says fashion’s Golden Quarter depends on whether or not consumers are allowed to celebrate in groups.

“The appetite for festive fashion will be very much dependent on government guidelines around parties,” she says.“Occasionwear, by definition, requires an outlet for social gatherings. Although the Government is clamping down on large gatherings, it has also implied that regulations will be relaxed come Christmas. 

“This, however, doesn’t give retailers much time to prepare, so managing assortments will come with a higher level of risk this season.”

Many retailers have planned ahead and minimised their exposure in party dresses. In fact, Lavington has backed more versatile items in the coming months, and predicts long-wearing denim and tops that can be dressed up or down for parties and pub trips or festive Zoom calls will sell well.

A Topman spokesman predicts only a “small element of partywear” will be among its top sellers. He says: “Leisurewear will continue to be strong in the lead-up to Christmas, but with the addition of jackets and check shirts and a small element of partywear for staying at home or going out.”

Many shoppers won’t risk buying expensive partywear pieces that they may not be able to wear.

“People are more likely to reuse things from their own wardrobes from previous years, and where they do want to make investments, they’re more likely to buy casual pieces – like a nice party top that they could mix and match in the future, rather than a dress or full outfit,” says Collins.

The lockdown period has made some consumers take stock of their consumption habits, and has triggered a shift towards more sustainable practices, including shopping locally and meal planning to avoid waste when limiting trips to the supermarket.

Consequently, those wishing to purchase new festive clothing could look to other channels in order to keep their environmental footprint lower, such as buying vintage or second-hand items, particularly for big events.

“One channel we might see improve over the season is rental, especially in the peer-to-peer space,” says Couttigane. 

Christmas 2020 will be a Christmas unlike any other, and while fashion retailers may not have a Golden Quarter of sequins and suits, there’s still a place for some celebrations and festive clothing – even if it’s just from the waist up on Zoom.