Jonathan Heilbron is a smart, polished British gent who loves live rock music and recently went to see the Sex Pistols in concert.
That combination of polite, well-spoken charm and a modern edge makes him an ideal ambassador for luxury shirt retailer Thomas Pink – a quintessentially British brand that cemented its roots in Chelsea and has since experienced growing international success, particularly in the US.
When Heilbron joined as financial director in 1997, the retailer – set up by three brothers in 1984 – was a modest 12-store company turning over£15 million.
Since taking over as chief executive four years ago, he says he has trebled profits – owner LVMH does not disclose specific figures – and increased the store portfolio in the UK and abroad. Last year alone, 16 outlets opened, bringing the total, including concessions, to 62 worldwide.
“I am proud to have helped grow the brand and make it the living entity it is today – an exciting and confident British brand,” says Heilbron. As with many upscale labels, Thomas Pink has seemingly bucked the recent trend of negative trading. Heilbron says sales growth in 2007 was about 8 per cent.
The old adage that retail is detail applies with Heilbron. From a financial background, he spent 10 years as an investment banker at Nat West, but got a crash course in retail when he joined Thomas Pink – mucking in with all aspects of the then relatively small operation, including helping in the warehouse and with mail order.
When training shop assistants, Heilbron brings in style counsellors and colourists to help them advise customers with confidence. “We have customers from all over the world, so we also try to train on cultural differences and make sure we have people who speak different languages in stores,” he says.
Similarly, the music played in Thomas Pink shops is important to Heilbron in creating a sense of theatre. He changed the music played in shops recently, shifting towards modern British music such as Lily Allen and classic acts such as The Jam. He has also held talks with EMI about Thomas Pink sponsoring some of the music company’s bands.
“I have learnt that you have to be open-minded and continually assessing, reviewing and challenging yourself. You can never sit back and say ‘job done’,” he says. “Life is so fast-paced now and you have to keep ahead and keep providing something different.”
And Thomas Pink is doing that. In 2005 it launched the commuter shirt, which had a special iPod pocket and another in the sleeve to hold a London Oyster card or security pass, allowing barriers to be passed with ease. It caught the imagination of bloggers and sold out almost immediately.
This year, Thomas Pink will continue to increase its store count, the most important opening being at Heathrow’s Terminal 5. “We are in all four of its terminals and will have the biggest facade of any brand there. It will be a flagship store for us,” he says.
Internationally, the retailer is at various stages of talks to enter Hong Kong, Russia, Korea and Japan. It will launch in Mexico early this year.
Womenswear ranges are another key focus for Heilbron, who will introduce radical changes by the end of this autumn. “We are looking very carefully at the working woman and what we can provide for her. This is a very different market, which is more fashionable and, while I think we offer great women’s shirts, I believe we could do more in terms of tailoring, tops and dresses.” Tailoring for men, which was piloted in two stores in 2007, will also be rolled out to more shops.
In 2008, Heilbron is aiming for 25 per cent overall sales growth. “We have been very London-centric in the past, but have branched out recently to more regional department stores to spread the word of the brand,” Heilbron explains.
Another event this year that could up the Thomas Pink profile is the US elections. “Bill Clinton is a big fan,” notes Heilbron. If Hillary can be converted by the growing womenswear range, Thomas Pink could potentially clothe the first female US president.
IN THE PINK
Age: 47
Family: married with two teenage children
Hobbies: sports, such as playing tennis, live music
CAREER HiSTORY
2004-present: chief executive, Thomas Pink
1997: joins Thomas Pink as financial director
1986-97: director, corporate finance and corporate broking, Nat West Markets
1982-86: qualified as an accountant with PricewaterhouseCoopers
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