Putting Theo-ry into practice

There aren’t many retailers currently in a position to start a chain from scratch and see what happens. For the majority, it’s a matter of weathering the storm and seeing where the next curve ball might be coming from. It might be commodity prices, unavailability of appropriate locations, or, God forbid, having bought too much of the what seemed like a dead cert when it came down to placing an order more than six months ago.

We live in uncertain times, and yet from that very uncertainty springs opportunity: for some. Serial entrepreneur and TV personality Theo Paphitis certainly sees the current climate as a good one to establish something new. Over the past two weeks the founder and former owner of La Senza has completed the opening of six new lingerie stores on which the name Boux Avenue appears over the door.

The name might seem something of a puzzle, but when questioned Paphitis will say no more than that “there was a little French girl…”. Whatever the underlying story behind this one, the latest Boux Avenue opened on Lakeside’s lower level two weeks ago and not without a certain amount of celebrity razzamatazz, Essex style.

The only way is Essex

Other than his appearance between two black-suited and sun-glassed security types standing either side of the 2,820 sq ft store entrance and a spot of autograph signing, Paphitis was keen to impress Boux Avenue’s sense of difference. “This one’s got my thumbprints all over it,” he said, referring to both the store appearance and the stock that it houses.

And from the outside, not only does this appear different from rivals La Senza and the lingerie department in Marks & Spencer, but it is also perfectly in tune with estuarial Essex, insofar as this is about sparkle and glamour. The frontage is shiny black and the large, glossy black doors have silver door handles.

So far, so bling. Step inside and while this is certainly feminine glamour, it is actually a relatively simple scheme in terms of colour: black and cream. Luke Carrington, creative director at London-based Ink Associates, the consultancy that worked with Paphitis to create the store, says that prior to the Boux Avenue name, the working title for the new chain was “DNA” or “day, night or anytime”. He adds: “We tried to make the interior really quite classical, to provide a neutral backdrop for the product.”

Another way of putting this might be to say that this is a narrow interior with product merchandised along both side walls and units running the length of the mid-shop. The cash desk is at the back of the store, as are the fitting rooms, and the impression of Carrera marble is fostered by shiny porcelain tiles, that marry up with the cream cabinets on the lower part of the perimeter and in the mid-shop.

This, however, would be to reduce the space to a series of elements which, taken on their own, might not add up to much. Put them together and this is a good-looking lingerie store that does seem to have point of difference from the local, and national, competition. Paphitis points out a salient fact: “There’s huge density in this store. It may not look like there is, but it really is densely merchandised.”

This is achieved by the cabinets, which have been carefully designed to have a series of drawers where the merchandise is semi-visible, owing to their fronts being half height and topped with a piece of Perspex. And, at the risk of writing rather too much about a single piece of equipment, the fact that the mid-shop units have curved ends adds to the gentle appeal.

The purpose of the many drawers in each cabinet is straightforward. The merchandise displayed on top of each is available in every size and colour in the drawers beneath - this is, in effect, a discreet forward reserve.

The squared supports around the perimeter have also been used to advantage with parts of their interiors being hollow and providing niche displays, among other things, for packets containing backless, strapless bras.

The right buttons

Product having been selected, the prospective purchaser can now head to the back of the shop where a series of fitting rooms are approached by a carpeted corridor and where each cubicle door has a seductive name: ‘Satin’, ‘Lace’, ‘Silk’, and suchlike. It’s perfectly in keeping with the overall store ambience and follows through on the somewhat in-your-face glamour of the main selling floor.

The really clever bit about this part of the store is when you actually get into the fitting rooms a series of buttons allows you to set the mood. ‘Day’, ‘Night’ and ‘Dusk’ are the available lighting options, depending on the occasion for which a piece of lingerie is being bought. Equally important for any player in this part of the market is the fact that a fitting service is available.

At this point, note should also be made of the many lightboxes, featuring curvy-looking models, that are found around the shop, as well as small picture frame-size versions that are positioned on top of some of the cabinets. This may represent a fair investment when compared with straightforward cardboard point-of-purchase material, but it can be changed and therefore has the capacity to pay for itself over a longer period.

So will this work and does Boux Avenue provide shoppers with something removed from the normal run-of-the-mill lingerie store? Paphitis is pragmatic about the prospects of an immediate return on his investment: “I’ve done this because it’s right for me. Yes it’s challenging times and we know that. We’re not going to make any money for a couple of years, but when the good times come back we’ll be here.”

There are five other branches opened around the UK and Paphitis says his aim is to have 30 stores up and running within 12 months. He says he’s taking “a breather” now to see how the first tranche of stores perform. But given the crowds surrounding the store and waiting for the man to sign autographs, it would be churlish to suppose that this won’t prove an attractive addition to the high street. This is a mid-market proposition within a relatively upscale setting and it would almost seem odd if it didn’t work. It will be interesting to see what the reaction from Paphitis’ former chain, La Senza, proves to be in the locations where Boux Avenue has taken space.