Comment: M&S turns on style but can it turn on customers?

Marks & Spencer hosted its much anticipated autumn/winter clothing preview, the first ranges under direction of the new clothing team, and perhaps Marc Bolland’s last attempt at turning its general merchandise arm of the business back to growth after seven consecutive quarters of sales decline.

The product looked strong, fashion-focused and contemporary, and collections felt coherent, well executed and better targeted – though there is still room for improvement. A greater emphasis on quality, fit and design detailing shone through and this helped to justify some of the higher price points which ventured well into premium territory.

Statement pieces, such as the gold sequin floor length evening gown and the highly marketed pink coat, tied each theme together and gave ranges a focal point. However, these positives and jewel encrusted beacons of hope will be lost when product is diluted into stores with the more mainstream ranges which may not have yet benefited from Belinda Earl’s expertise.

Quality was the theme of the evening, with the retailer rightly pointing out that price is not the only driver of loyalty for their clothing customers – Verdict’s latest consumer survey showed that for the first time in over five years the importance of price had dropped among clothing shoppers across all socio-economic groups in the UK.

Consumers increasingly want added value through heavier weight fabric, enhanced embellishment and a flattering, and comfortable, fit – not just in more structured or tailored pieces, but in basics such as M&S’ £6 women’s t-shirt which has undergone development to reduce pilling and improve the shape. The implementation of its “Quality Charter” across the business and supplier base should allow it to successfully maintain quality standards, while helping it to achieve its aspiration of becoming the benchmark for quality across UK retail.

Interestingly, rather than merchandising products by sub brand as it does in stores, collections were displayed in stories such as London Calling and Wild Opulence. This created clear looks which were a little Zara-esque, and highlighted how women of different ages could buy appropriately into a theme, with many products likely to appeal to a very broad age bracket – a characteristic Zara does well.

Little was said about further rationalisation of its brand portfolio, just confirmation that M&S Collection would replace M&S Woman and would be the umbrella brand for Limited Edition (former Limited Collection) and Classic. There is still a risk of the brands being confused with too much product repetition, and while the retailer has edited womenswear by 10% – not enough to make a difference – it must ensure that ranges are concise and compelling so that  collections are easy and enjoyable to shop. 

M&S is making steps in the right direction, and certainly its focus and investment in quality was clearly noticeable across ranges, particularly in coats and dresses. Its play on the brand heritage and tradition with its Best of British collection, made up of tweeds and woollens, should be well received by shoppers looking for premiumisation through fabric quality and design.

And while it wants to become a fashion player, not just a clothing retailer, it must remain faithful to its core audience of 45+s by injecting relevant fashion – the younger end of the market is too competitive with the likes of Topshop and Asos so it should not be looking to emulate some of the trends that these players offer.

There is an awful lot resting on the new ranges which are due to hit stores in July, having been under scrutiny from both the city and customers for the last six months, but the product alone will not succeed in isolation. M&S must ensure that the presentation of the collections instore and online, marketing and price points all contribute to the desirability of the ranges.

Honor Westnedge is a senior analyst at Verdict Research